Building My First Musket by Craig Goheen

I decided (partially because of COVID) that it was time for me to build a musket.  I’m a youngster in the N-SSA.  A friend had a Dunlap stock that he had held onto for a while, and he was willing to part with it if I wanted to build an 1842 Springfield Smoothbore.  

I’ve never done this before.  I do reload, and I did trigger work on 1911's; this didn’t seem like a giant leap. I was wrong.

Planning the Rifle

I have a stock, what do I need next?   A barrel?  I browsed the web and talked to teammates and they said I should order a Whitacre barrel - in white/bright? As a gun owner, and a novice builder I thought all gun barrels were blue or stainless.  I did not know what white/bright meant.  I found out white is how many folks describe barrels that aren’t blued.  Not knowing whether or not I needed to learn how to blue and since I’ve already bought a stock, I decided it was time to do some actual research.  There is a lot of information on 1842 Springfields. It is hard to imagine how many variations exist.  I could not find a single document or source to identify all the specifics I needed to learn.  So where to next?  N-SSA SAC (Small Arms Committee).  I asked, and quickly received, an application for a SAC card which is really a build sheet.  A build sheet tells me what parts I must have on the 1842 Springfield and where it should be on the Springfield.  For example:  To be compliant with the N-SSA rules, the rifle stock length must be 55 inches, plus or minus ½”.  The SAC rep, Mr. Holland, also sent instructions on how to measure the specified dimensions.  It doesn’t identify every single component of the Springfield, just the major observable parts.  

At this point I had a stock, an application for a SAC card, and a barrel.  Looking online I was able to find several helpful resources but there were numerous sites that were not helpful. I’m undecided about a majority of YouTube videos because they were too general.   Most of the diagrams that exist belong to companies that wish to sell you parts so they are not as detailed as a builder needs them to be. With the various diagrams I built a spreadsheet with all the parts I would need and the various companies that have the parts, their part number, and the costs including taxes and shipping.  

In hindsight, the spreadsheet was not the smartest of moves as I let costs drive my decisions. My first shipments of parts (suppliers will not be divulged) were garbage.   My subsequent  research showed that many inexpensive parts are made In SW Asia.  The better parts are made/supplied from Europe.  The inexpensive “new” parts I received were lacking quality control.  Parts were missing holes, some were rusted, most weren’t finished (required lots of work to polish) and in some cases they were brittle.   The new parts I ended up buying were barrel bands, sling swivels, band springs, ramrod, ramrod spoon, trigger, trigger guard, trigger plate, butt plate and various screws and pins. The original parts I purchased were the lock plate, lock components, and hammer.  I’ve been told that original parts are the best, but I was not sure.   I do know that I wanted an original lock plate (personal preference) and now I am convinced that original parts are better made.

Preparing The Parts

The first step in the build was to make sure all the parts were ready to be fitted to the stock.

The process of making the parts usable involved filing with a mill file, emery paper of various grits and polishing wheel.  Each step required 30 or more minutes at each stage of smoothing.   I could have gone directly to a buffing wheel with jewelers rouge, but then the parts would not have been smooth/flat but might be shiny. I started with a mill file, then 400 grit emery paper and worked my way up to 3000 grit.   I also used a Dremel, with a polishing compound. I learned there are at least 4 different grades of compound and different buffing wheels.  As I mentioned, this is a long process and takes many hours.   In several instances, when I decided the parts were substandard, I ordered duplicate parts from a supplier that has European made parts.  The parts are a significantly higher quality, they are finished/polished well and they are more expensive.  As an example, here are pictures of a European end barrel band and a  SW Asia end barrel band.   I gave up on finishing the smaller band (bottom of the picture) when I started polishing and noticed all the imperfections, beginning with it being ¼” shorter and missing the hole for the band spring.

After multiple orders, returns, non-returns (you bought it, you own it attitude),  I ended up with a mixture of suppliers.   Some of the barrel bands from SW Asia I kept primarily because I had invested so much effort.  As I mentioned, this is a long process and took many hours.  From a friend I had received a single original 1842 Sling Swivel, I needed two.  I bought another reproduction sling swivel and the differences between them is significant.  The original swivel is 1.75” wide and the reproductions are 1.95” wide.  The reproduction had obvious brazing and short of painting it, I didn’t know how I was going to get a matched set.

I couldn’t find a comparable swivel so I went to the N-SSA forum and started asking questions.   There is a gentleman in Arizona who said he had similar sling swivels. He sent them to me for comparison.  They were a good match, so a deal was struck.  

The Build

I have not been able to find a book, paper, article, that tells me how to conduct or even start the build.  I guessed and started fitting the barrel.  This part, in and of itself, could be a real chicken and egg discussion.  In retrospect, the barrel might NOT be the first component fit to the stock. But then I thought the lock plate should be first so I could figure out where the barrel should fit, specifically the nipple to the hammer.   But then the barrel could be first so the lock plate assembly can be fitted.  Of all the pieces that are being installed, the fit of the barrel and lock is the most observable and arguably the most important for proper function.

One of the considerations for fitting parts is how much wood you have to work with.  The stock, as I bought it, has been partially routed.  The lock inlay, the tang, barrel, etc.  The inlay usually needs to be enlarged to fit the parts.  The fitting of the lock, stock and barrel is a ballet.  The inlay for the lock, i.e., extra wood, only allowed for moving the lock ⅛” in any direction.  There is a little more flexibility for the barrel and tang.  

I still don’t have the answer on which should occur first.  I started with some barrel fitting. The major component fitting is a messy and difficult process for me.  I started using”NON-DRYING Prussia Blue”.  This is like blue ink that never dries.   I would slather over the bottom of the barrel and then set the barrel in the stock.   Then I’d remove the barrel and look for the dye which would indicate the high spots.   Using a barrel bedding tool I’d shave the high spots down, recover the barrel with blue, set it in place and repeat the process.   

To continue from this point in the build, I bought a set of wood tools for carving.  These included Iwasaki Wood files, Japanese wood carving tools and assorted chisels which needed lots of sharpening. I also bought a scalpel with 100 disposable blades.  The scalpel has been very useful. 

I started some lock fitting.  In order to get a gross fit on the lock I had to remove the hammer, tumbler, and springs.   If I left those parts on I would have had to work fitting all the parts as well as the lock plate.  With the initial fit of the lock plate and barrel I came upon a new level of complexity, the stock, towards the end, isn’t straight.  This meant I needed to fit the bands to hold the barrel in a correct relationship to the stock so the lock could achieve a final fit.  Once I started fitting the barrel bands I had to blue dye the barrel, put it in and try to fit the bands.  Then I did some barrel inletting and stock trimming to get the barrel and bands to fit.  It was during this process I learned there is a difference between a smoothbore ramrod and a rifle ramrod.  I went through the dye, assemble, disassemble, shave/carve process many, many times.  I ended up taking off too much of the stock's forend.   To resolve this mistake I went to the local hardwood store and got a scrap of walnut that I had to carve and sand so it matched the stock, then I glued it to the end of the stock and restarted the process.  

I finally finished the fit of the barrel, bands and stock. I went back to the lock plate, finished fitting it, then I assembled the lock, and it would not fit.   The process I followed for fitting all the lock parts was to put on a part, put blue dye on it, try the fit, find the contact point, carve and repeat.   Once the first part fit I added the next part, put blue dye on it, tried the fit, found the contact point, carve and repeat.

In order to continue with parts fitting I had to do drilling to establish the barrel tang screw which attaches to the trigger plate, so I now own a drill press.  Even with all these tools I still managed to drill the wrong angle on the tang screw.  I ended up filling the first hole with epoxy and redrilling it.  Not a lot of holes to drill (eight), but each one has particulars with regards to angles and size.   The lock plate screws need to be parallel, the butt plate screws are large and need a correct size hole.   

Once I completed the tang screw whole and mounted the lock and barrel I found out the trigger plate didn’t fit. More blue dye.  I got the trigger plate to fit so I put the trigger plate,trigger, guard all together, and it didn’t fit.  I disassembled it, put on one part, put on the blue dye and did the fit, carve,  fit process over and over until all the parts were reassembled and everything fit.   

Then I found out that even though all the parts fit, it doesn’t mean they operate correctly.  The trigger did not have enough internal clearance to properly activate the sear.  The trigger could not activate the sear until I figured out how much clearance I needed.  I now had all the internal parts installed, the barrel, butt plate and bands.   Next I needed to install the band retention springs.

After the barrel and lock alignment the hardest carving/alignment were the band springs. The band springs require a lot of detail carving and require holes that are not perpendicular to the barrel -  nor are they parallel to the barrel cut.  I went to the scrap pile and got a 2” x 2” piece of hardwood and practiced.  I drilled a hole then set the spring down, outlined it, and then started carving.  Even with that practice it didn’t turn out great, just good, and that is because the stock is a different shape than my practice wood.   

Once again I assembled the musket and decided to make sure the ramrod fit.  The ramrod didn’t fit, it was too tight.   Where could I find a 40”long drill bit to resolve the problem?  I didn’t.  I had a 48” x  ⅛” steel rod, and I duct taped pieces of 400 grit sandpaper around the rod.  Then I once again disassembled the musket and used the rod and paper to sand out the ramrod hole until it was large enough to allow the ramrod to fit.  Then I reassembled the musket and checked the fit - it works well.  

Finishing the Stock 

I have finished wood before and there are lots of options.  Some of the things I used in the past include tongue oil, linseed oil, stain and varnish.  I plan to use this musket out in the Ft Shenandoah environment.  That led me to choose a briwax stain finish.   It is a rub on, rub in, wipe off finish that weathers well.  But first, I had to take the musket apart, remove the vise block that comes as part of the stock and get out the sandpaper and start sanding.   I ended up sanding with 600 grit.  After using a soft cloth to apply the Briwax, I used fine steel wool to wipe it down, then another soft cloth to remove all the excess.  Then I reassembled the musket.

Closing Thoughts

Of all the things I’ve been taught, the very best information I received was never work more than 1.5 hours per day on the rifle at a time.  The couple of times I violated this rule I screwed something up.  Experience has showed me that after 90 minutes I started getting frustrated and would do dumb things like switch from 220 grit sand paper to 60 grit, so there are some gaps and wavy parts that should not be there.  

And what couldn't I find?  I have just kind of found out how the ramrod spoon is built/carved/cut into the stock. Another Springfield I took apart has a bedded barrel so the spoon isn’t totally visible.  I’ve asked some folks about the ramrod spoon.  They have recommended that I don’t install it, rather I should just put in the retaining pin so it looks correct.  I saw the bedded barrel on another Springfield. I now have questions about how to bed a barrel, maybe on a future build.  I also still need to figure out how to change the sight blade so it is brass, not chrome.  I’m reluctant to cut it off and try to solder on a piece of brass.   To do that I think I’d have to order a new end barrel band because my limited experience says I can’t get it right the first time.  I’d use the cast barrel band I got, which is short and ugly, but I’m not sure it is the same material. 

Will I do this again - Yes, because it was a great learning experience and I’m proud to say I built it.

I’m very happy with what I’ve accomplished, and next time I’ll do better.  Hopefully I’ll be able to get up to the Fortt soon and actually shoot it. Also I still need a SAC card/approval. And this build process started a new process on figuring out the load for this musket.   The barrel, a 69 caliber, was built to an internal diameter of .687 but a .685 won’t fit down the barrel easily.    A new process for me, and a new learning experience that involves terms like ruffing, tumbling, lubes, spruel etc.  

The next build will start with a bunch of questions and a much more detailed search for answers before I invest any dollars.  For Example: Is there a historical source for the weapon that has lots of details? Is there more than one model? Who could supply parts?   Are original parts available? Maybe I’ll look at an H&P.  

I’m retired.  I joined the 49th Virginia Volunteer Infantry 4 years ago and have been enjoying the camaraderie and competition.  I don’t have many answers but if you have questions or comments I can be reached at goheen@juno.com.